How To Repair Smith Corona Typewriter

presents

The Typewriter Revolution:
A Typist's Companion for the 21st Century

Available now

For the all-time and latest presentation of my favorite techniques, come across Chapter 4 of my book.

Meanwhile, here's a collection of tips I've discovered myself and learned from friends. (Thank you especially to Rob Bowker, Gregory Fischer, Paul Dobias, Luis Galiano, Tim McCoy, Jared Mogensen, Jett Morton, Paul Musgrave, Lynn Myers, Robert Neuwirth, Paul Panella, Joseph Pierson, George Prytulak, Paul Ross, Matthieu Th�or�t, Lane Welch, and Peter Weil.) Everybody, if you accept more tips, send them in!

Earlier you do annihilation: Think almost whether you lot're willing to live with the consequences if you mess up. Try to make sure that your alterations are reversible, and don't do anything to a truly rare auto other than gentle dusting and cleaning. The best way to get familiar with restoration techniques is to experiment on an ordinary typewriter first (how about a good erstwhile Underwood No. 5?). Whenever possible, test all these techniques on a subconscious surface of the typewriter before y'all attack the master surfaces.

Online Typewriter Support, past Will Davis, provides farther advice on operating, maintaining, and repairing a manual typewriter.

For more than practiced ideas about restoration, bank check out The Typewriter Restoration Site.

Names of some products below are linked to Google Shopping then you lot can compare prices online.

Initial cleanup and lubrication

Click here for a basic illustrated guide to cleaning and lubrication from a 1977 Reader's Assimilate book.

These are happy hours for me, equally I get to discover the various parts and features of my new typewriter and I starting time to uncover the dazzler hidden under the filth. The paint on your typewriter may appear cracked and dull, only chances are that you are looking at decades' worth of tightly compacted dirt, grease, ink, sweat, and cigarette smoke. If y'all tin manage to remove that layer of crud, you may find that the underlying paint job is nevertheless smoothen and tin can be made to gleam. If you're unlucky, the crud will plough out to be a layer of varnish applied at the factory, which has grown wrinkly and brown with age; that can be hard to remove. Of grade, if you're lucky enough to find a typewriter that has been kept in a instance, this won't be an effect -- it volition merely need a little loving care. In any case, you'll detect the following items useful:

Soft, make clean, white cotton rags. Yous'll go through a lot of these. The gentlest approach (recommended at first) is to wipe the typewriter with a moisture rag, or a rag dipped in h2o with a few drops of dishwashing liquid.
Brushes: you lot tin effort toothbrushes, nail brushes, brushes for cleaning firearms or dentures, and artist's paintbrushes. The beard on brushes tin be trimmed to make them stiffer.
Q-tips are squeamish for cleaning hard-to-achieve areas. (Constructed-tipped culling: Tipton's shooters swabs. One collector has written to me: "Instead of using Q-Tips, you can also coil your own swabs using wooden applicator sticks (6" long x 1/16" diameter) and cotton batting. Bamboo skewers piece of work just as well, and they last for days/weeks. One roll of cotton batting will yield about a 1000000 swabs. As presently as a swab is dirty, you pull it off and supervene upon it. The most important affair is to use damp--not moisture--swabs. You can achieve this by rolling a wet swab on a piece of blotting paper. Past doing this, yous avoid flooding the surface, and water won't seep into all the incorrect places."
For initial dust removal, the vacuum-cleaner hose zipper kits sold in figurer and computer supply stores and catalogs work very well. They are especially helpful in cleaning mechanical parts.
For more than precise blasts of compressed air, buy a canister intended for cleaning electronic equipment (these are bachelor at virtually office supply stores).
You can also sic your leaf blower on your dusty one-time typewriter, or have it down to the gas station and take advantage of their compressed air. (Probably not a great idea for rare typewriters!)
Meghan S. writes: "Hey, I establish something a few months back that helped wonders for the initial dust-off when I acquired a new machine -- dryer sheets! They collect dust as you wipe, moving information technology all to one spot, and mostly the dust volition stick to the sheet -- fifty-fifty dust you lot didn't know was there. Helps with thin layers of grease that cotton rags will simply move effectually, too. And they're thin enough that yous can get into hard-to-reach spaces (simply not the small-scale pieces)."

The following substances tin can help remove dirt and grease (often onetime typewriters have been over-oiled at some betoken in the past, or even dipped in a vat of oil, which in the long term turns into a sticky mess that must be removed).

Soft Scrub is a gentle liquid cleanser that is easily available. To remove heavy dirt, try applying diluted Soft Scrub with a finger or rag, and removing it with a rag, over and over and over. Conscientious: some finishes volition exist scratched even by this cleanser. Only my Caligraph required vigorous scrubbing with undiluted Soft Scrub!
Try Dentucreme: "yes, the toothpaste for dentures. Information technology is very mildly abrasive and extremely effective on surfaces that would show scratches. I apply information technology on mother-of-pearl and other delicate surfaces." --Lane Welch
Steve Maloney reports that "Gojo," a hand cleaner, is splendid for cleaning original lacquer black.
Scrubbing Bubbling is good for penetrating tiny crevices on wrinkle paint. Use a toothbrush to get information technology down into the wrinkles. Information technology does have a tendency to remove some paint, and can damage decals, so be careful.
"For typewriters that have textured finishes, I would non recommend using furniture polish. I accept establish that the best way to clean these surfaces without buffing down the textured finish is to utilise a 'fingernail' brush and a solution of baking soda and mild dishwashing detergent. I am liberal with the baking soda and conservative with the dishwashing detergent. The dishwashing detergent is mainly there for removing oils. You might be surprised how much dirt gets accumulated in these textured finishes." -- Paul Dobias
"A very good cleaner that works well with 'crackle lacquer' finishes is Dow Scrubbing Bubbles. It is a water based foaming cleaner that lifts out dirt and other grunge from the nooks and crannies in the finish. Information technology also works well on smooth finishes, merely is actually skilful if you are trying to go down into the item. It also is splendid for such things as the oil cloth and simulated leather of portable cases. The current product is made by Johnson, and is not as good in my interpretation as the original Dow product, simply information technology is nonetheless very practiced. I accept used it on automobile interiors such equally headliners, and or musical instrument cases, as well as music amplifiers with Tolex covering. Using a soft castor like an old tooth brush works well. It is then skilful, after wiping off the concluding application, to utilise plain water to wipe down the surface until clean." --Tim McCoy
"Another more aggressive product, but all the same water based, is �Krud Kutter�; this stuff volition clean the grease off of an old engine, simply non harm the paint. Information technology, similar the Scrubbing Bubbles, should exist finished with a clean water wipe down, until all traces of dirt are off. In that location is some other even more aggressive version called Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover. I�ve not tried information technology, but information technology might exist useful in a watered down form, but exam it on something before using it on some collectable." --Tim McCoy
"For postwar machines, use a cleaner designed for pots and pans, or fifty-fifty dish lather--it volition cutting through the crud and make any greyness typewriter a petty less gray/dull." --Nick Bodemer
Oil will amend the functioning of some parts, notably when applied to the carriage rails. Employ very sparingly, with the end of a pin or newspaper clip. Use a calorie-free, high-grade oil. three-in-1 Oil is an easily available selection. Probably a better choice is gun oil, such as Hoppe's Gun Oil, or a penetrant such every bit PB Blaster.
It's a bad idea to put oil in the segment (the slotted piece that holds the typebars); the oil can get dirty and gummy after a while.
Information technology's a bad idea to use WD-xl on a typewriter. Information technology is not a proficient lubricant for fine machinery and after a picayune time, it will get gummy and make things worse than ever.
Gun cleaning solvents can exist very useful. I have had good luck with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. Other products I have heard about are Thou-Pro gun cleaning spray, One thousand-96, and Break Free.
Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant has worked very well for me in removing erstwhile oil and lubricating mechanisms.
PB Blaster can remove old grease and free up parts. It also tin restore shine to dark wrinkle paint, as information technology seeps into tiny crevices.
Stronger products (use outdoors, and test inconspicuously on decals and paint) include naphtha (lighter fluid) and carburetor cleaner.
"Also a skilful cleaner is equal parts of acetone, automatic transmission fluid, kerosene, and mineral spirits. Be careful of the acetone, however. This is a standard firearms cleaning mixture for cleaning bores, etc. For actually gunked up typewriters, it works pretty good." --Paul Ross
Mineral spirits (east.m., Varsol or Stoddard Solvent, bachelor at paint stores) have been recommended to me. "Brush the mineral spirits on, using a natural-fiber brush which is bonded onto the handle with metal, not plastic. The machine should then exist GENTLY blown out with an air compressor. And so apply a light lubrication to moving parts."
"When performing cleaning and lubrication, I would recommend following up later degreasers and lighter oils with a heavier oil. Too, oils used around chipped and delaminating coatings may contribute to further delamination. For instance, for blowing out dusts, removing some grease buildup, and to leave behind a think layer of lubricant, I would recommend using 'Telly Tuner Cleaner,' and so follow up with a light oil." -- Paul Dobias
"At l cents each, Southern Bloomer cleaning rags may be expensive (after all, they're going to get dirty quick), only they put out no lint, and they've been a big assistance." --Robert Neuwirth
"Automated transmission fluid, thinned 50% with kerosene, is an excellent rust preventive and general lubricant. Lots of anti-oxidant material in it, and then information technology doesn't 'gum up' with time. As usual, in oiling, apply sparingly." --Paul Ross
Instead of lubricating with oil, which can eventually collect grit and make the mechanism stick once again, you tin can effort dry, powdered graphite. (This is not recommended for apply on anything that has aluminum, since graphite has a high galvanic deviation to aluminum and will pit and corrode it.)
"Tipton'due south Metallic Magic rust and lead Removing Cloths exercise a good chore rubbing grime, rust, and discoloration off typebars and other naked metal pieces. Leaves a fleck of a greasy feel, so you take to rub down with a plain fabric after you're done". --Robert Neuwirth
"Iosso Gunbrite is good at taking off serious surface rust without destroying chromed surfaces, though you have to rub like crazy." --Robert Neuwirth
Platen cleaning: later on an initial wiping with water and Soft Scrub, several brands of safe/plastic restorer tin can remove more clay. For more on platens, encounter the next section. "Rubber rejuvenators" will clean platens, only not really rejuvenate the rubber. In my experience, the stuff is also skillful for dissolving old grease, such as grease stuck in the slots of a segment.
Fedron Rubber Cleaner Conditioner is a heavy-duty solvent that cleans type and platens. If you can find a dauber (like the type used for liquid shoe smooth) spread a sparse coating on the blazon and let information technology piece of work for about a minute or 2, then wipe off with a rag. For the platen, if the platen can be removed, put some Fedron on a rag and wipe the prophylactic off. Information technology instantly removes dirt, ink, and rust marks. Fedron is harsh: exist certain to keep information technology away from paint, decals, and all delicate parts and materials (such equally string and plastic). Use in a well-ventilated area: it stinks!

How do you remove mold from a typewriter?

"That moldy smell" is a common problem, specially with portables--and if you lot're allergic to mold, it tin can be a existent health hazard. Aye, the smell is acquired primarily by mold, combined with decades of dust and cigarette fume. Mold won't grow on metal, but it will grow on typewriter ribbons and on fabric-covered cases. Accept your typewriter out of its case and blow the lint and grit out of information technology (a compressed air canister for cleaning figurer and stereo equipment is handy hither). Throw away the ribbon. Look carefully for whatever surfaces that may have mold on them (the typebars unremarkably rest on fabric or felt; some typewriters also have felt elsewhere, to deaden the noise). Clean and polish the machine using the materials I list on this folio. The cases can exist cleaned with harsher materials, such equally Scrubbing Bubbling, Concrobium mold control, Lysol, window cleaner, or ammonia. Mr. Clean'southward Eraser Pads take as well been recommended to me for this purpose. Then let everything dry out thoroughly, preferably in sunlight. Shop typewriters and cases in dry environments with moderate temperatures. You lot may have to clean the cases again every six months or and so.
Paul Panella writes: "I've plant that the musty smell from the old leatherette cases can be removed by first wiping downwards with a low-cal disinfectant wipe. I use Clorox disinfecting wipes. Then I generously apply Old English lemon oil furniture polish inside and out. The leatherette merely soaks information technology up and it seems to take care of the strong scent with no residue. These one-time cases are so dry that the lemon oil disappears nearly immediately."
Paul Musgrave writes: "Sometimes, the smell of an old typewriter is quite pleasant and should be left as is for the sake of authenticity. Other times, an quondam typewriter has been left in a basement where a nasty, eye-scorching fungus has staked its claim on the dormant sometime machine. This is specially truthful of higher-end portables (ones with felt soundproofing) that take been left in their wood-beat cases in a damp environment. Some examples are the Smith Corona Silent and Olympia SMs.
"My first experience with a nasty, moldy typewriter was with a Smith Corona Super. I went so far as to remove the felt, but unfortunately, I wasn't quite able to get the soundproofing to really work afterwards that. I switched tactics later on that experience. My side by side machine was with a Smith Corona Silent (Speedline). Information technology is a cute car, but the musty scent was stiff enough to fill the room. This time, I used Concrobium Mold Command. It is sold in spray bottles at Dwelling Depot (among other retailers). I took the shell off the Silent, carefully sprayed the Concrobium on the felt (it leaves a foggy coat on about parts, and then I highly recommend being precise in spraying...even pressing the nozzle direct against the felt and slowly injecting the fluid into the felt). After letting information technology soak into the felt for a few minutes, I sopped upwardly the excess in a paper towel and let the pieces air dry. Certain enough, the Concrobium killed whatsoever mold and spores lived in the felt and took the edge off the smell. I've tried the same technique with a SC Skyriter with success. From what I sympathise, Concrobium leaves an anti-fungal and anti-microbial film wherever it is applied to kill any fungi is on it and prevent it from returning. Since the felt in a typewriter is virtually always hidden and used solely for sound deadening, I can't imagine the film would be a trouble. It'south been nearly a twelvemonth since I treated my Silent, and I've not had any ill effects whatsoever.

"In most cases, the wooden carrying case often absorbs the musty olfactory property. This was truthful in the instance of my Silent. I was able to make clean the case (inside and out) using the techniques I learned on your webpage, which helped somewhat. To kill the residual of the aroma, I took some fresh pipe tobacco (inexpensive stuff from the drug store will work, as long equally it smells pleasant), wrapped near a silver dollar's worth upward in a java filter, tied it into a bundle using a trash pocketbook tie, and set it in the typewriter case. After a few weeks, the slight remains of the onetime typewriter smell blends with the olfactory property of the fresh pipe tobacco and the typewriter smells quite divine. I ordinarily wouldn't recommend tobacco use to anybody, but in this case information technology was put to a actually adept use!"

Improving paint, metal, rubber, and other parts

The typical deep-black colour of an early typewriter consists of lacquer, which is quite difficult to restore. Enamel paint was introduced in the 1920s. Typewriters also accept many metal parts which are susceptible to rust and discoloration. The shiny metal parts of older typewriters are nickel-plated; some newer machines have chrome-plated parts.

Rust

Rust removal should be attempted by the gentlest method first. In order from gentlest to roughest, I recommend: Female parent's Mag & Aluminum Polish (bachelor at auto supply stores); superfine steel wool (try to avoid getting the steel filings into the mechanism); superfine sandpaper; rougher steel wool; a synthetic scrubbing pad; a rotary tool (such equally a Dremel) with a wire brush attachment (I recommend the cup-shaped brush; wear center protection, as bits of wire volition fly off); a rotary tool with a cratex attachment (rubber impregnated with a tough material). The cratex attachments do a great job of removing rust, only they will go out a marker; use them for initial heavy rust removal, and so finish with a wire brush to smooth out the finish.
Evapo-Rust is an excellent product if you lot need to remove rust from the whole body of a automobile, or if you want to de-rust individual parts without using the methods above. You immerse things in this product and only the rust disappears. It is nontoxic and reusable. In gild to immerse a whole typewriter, you will need 5 gallons (it can be diluted a bit with water if necessary). Remove the trunk panels and platen. If there are any remaining paint and decals, protect them with a good glaze of wax, as the Evapo-Rust tin harm them. After soaking in Evapo-Rust for upwards to 24 hours, things can be rinsed off in h2o. Then dry them immediately with a hair dryer or other means. (With some parts y'all may non mind having a balance of Evapo-Rust on them, which will protect confronting future rust, so there is no demand to rinse.) The Evapo-Rust may leave a deadening or nighttime balance on surfaces, which can easily exist polished clean. Y'all may also get acceptable effects by spraying Evapo-Rust repeatedly for nigh an hour, instead of immersing the car. Some products chemically identical to Evapo-Rust are also available. They and the original tin can exist found on eBay with a search for "Evapo-Rust."
"For pocket-sized rust removal, endeavour using an electric eraser (also known equally an 'builder'due south eraser'). Koh-I-Noor and Staedtler both brand fairly cheap models with a variety of eraser refills. The gray, ink erasers are the near ambitious. The soft, white refills are especially practiced for removing light surface dirt and oxide layers (practice on a tarnished penny!)."

Paint

Here'south a really easy way to touch up small-scale spots of black paint (which is past far the most common color on early typewriters): use a permanent blackness marker. This is easy to apply, lies flat on the surface, and tin can make a large difference. Despite the term "permanent," it is likewise easier to remove than pigment.
What if you want or demand to utilise existent paint? Touch-up paint for cars, which is sold in tiny bottles in auto shops, can exist handy here. It dries to a glossy stop and is not thick or clumpy, as long as it's shaken enough in advance. But have a good look at your typewriter in the sunlight afterwards this pigment has dried -- y'all may detect that information technology's not really equally black as the original pigment.
"The paint pen to apply is Uni-Pigment medium line PX-20 (or fine line if you prefer) Opaque Oil Base of operations marking. You can order them at Staples in just most any colour of the rainbow.They but take a day or two to get." -- Robert Nelson
"For coatings touch up, ensure that surfaces are free of oils, vitrify exposed substrate materials with an annoying pad, and recoat with nail polish. The 'anchor tooth' from abrading will ensure adhesion, simply your requirements probably won't be higher than a uncomplicated visually detected surface profile. Nail polishes come in many shades, so you should be able to get your exact match. Also, they have a tendency to prepare up a little thicker than some of the automotive paints, which adds to the depth and luster of the color to ameliorate simulate the multiple layer event of lacquers." -- Paul Dobias
"Goo Gone" tin can remove unwanted paint that has been added by a previous possessor, revealing the original paint and decals below. It also removes Wite-Out.
To restore faded paint on keys and scales, try Lacquer-Stik Backup Paint.

Feet and feed rollers

Bob Aubert offers new replacement anxiety made of black Buna North synthetic prophylactic, which is far more durable than the original composite textile. The feet are sold in sets for the following typewriters: Columbia/Barlock Models i- 20; Hammond 1 - 12, and the non-folding Multiplex; Harris/King Visible 4; LC Smith 1 - 8; Oliver 1 - 11; Smith Premier i - 10; Remington Standard x; Royal Flatbed i - v; early Royal x; Underwood 1 - 5; Wellington 2 & 3; Williams 1 - 6, Yost 1 - four, and some portables. Prices vary from $seven.50 to $35.00 per prepare (postpaid) depending on size and whether or non the mounting hardware is included. He does not take whatever tapered square of rectangular feet. At that place are two different sizes of stepped bumpers bachelor. They will piece of work whatsoever typewriter with 1/2" or 5/8" mounting holes. If you require a different stem bore, these feet can be modified to fit. For more than info, Bob's electronic mail address is rite2aubert@juno.com or call him at (856) 461-7080.
You can as well visit your local hardware store in search of rubber parts that will work as anxiety. Sometimes a rubber stopper volition exist ideal (tip: squeeze the big terminate in first, non the small end). Andy McWilliams writes that this item worked perfectly to supercede the anxiety on a Remington portable #five (and they will probably work on similar Remington portables): 27/32 ten 9/32 inch slip articulation washers, Home Depot stock number 38809b, made by Danco Co., Concordville, PA 19331. Ryan Long had luck fitting his ain Remington portable #5 with "Replacement Aqua-Seal Washers for 'American Standard,'" size: fits 2k-2h and 2c, made by Danco for faucet repair. They fit into place and lock with an O-Ring.
Ane collector writes: "I am writing to you to add a tip regarding typewriter feet. I found this stuff to be almost ingenious indeed and very reasonably priced compared to having feet manufactured professionally or even purchasing new old stock. It runs nigh $ix.00 to $12.00 for a bundle. The production is chosen Sugru. It is an air-curing molding glue putty that dries overnight into a soft silicone/ safety and it comes in a variety of colors that can be mixed into custom colors too. Black, white and greyness are also available. You lot tin can shape it, mold it or comprehend things with it and it adheres to the surface y'all apply it to! It can even be ordered in a magnetized form."
Slices of wine corks can make easy replacements for feet, if you lot don't feel y'all need rubber.
Some other possibility is refurbishing the one-time rubber feet. Carl Strange recommends "a product called Plasti Dip, which is ordinarily idea of equally a blanket for hand tools; it gives new life (and restored majority, to say nothing of a rubbery grip) to emaciated typewriter feet. A tin costs nearly $viii. I used it on a 1941 Underwood Champion and my love old Underwood 11 with very satisfactory results."
Feed rollers are often hardened or have adult "flats" from existence pressed against the platen for decades. Matthieu Th�or�t reports that removing the onetime rubber and replacing it with shrink tubing tin be the solution. "For the back rollers, I used about eight layers of tubing, shrunk and cut to attain a great look. The front rollers took only four layers. I used a smaller bore tube that I loosened with my pliers, so that the shrunk result would be actually tight."
Bob Aubert suggests using prophylactic hose for cars to recover your feed rollers. "I've done it this way at to the lowest degree a hundred times and it works! But take your old rollers to a motorcar place, inquire to see their hose stock, pick something that is shut and information technology will exist simply fine. Shop for a brand that is smooth on the outside! Cut it roughly to size, slip information technology on, put the shaft into an electrical drill, and trim the excess off with a razor while it'south turning. Information technology volition look like it was done in the Remington manufactory!"
You may also be able to recover feed rollers with latex tubing, sold by length in some hardware stores.
Another solution worth trying is pencil grips.
Black electrical tape may also work, and for this method you don't need to remove the feed rollers from their housing (which is sometimes difficult). Only cut and scrape off the old rubber and utilize the record, stretching fairly tightly and making information technology as long as it needs to exist to reproduce the original diameter. Put it on in such a way that the normal direction of rotation volition tend to keep flattening downwardly the terminate of the record.
One concluding proffer for feed rollers: when heated with a hair dryer they may become pliable and you may be able to reshape them. Heat may likewise help you unstick feed rollers from a platen.

Platens

The platen is the printing surface of a typewriter -- unremarkably, a rubber-covered cylinder. The prophylactic on an sometime platen may get hard and slick, so that it doesn't grip newspaper properly and the type hits it with a harsh, loud impact. What to do?

Vigorous scrubbing with Soft Scrub will remove the dirty and slick exterior layer of the safe, and improve the grip.
Yous tin also effort roughening the platen past scrubbing it with sandpaper, but I similar the results of Soft Scrub ameliorate.
Brake fluid (DOT three) reacts chemically with prophylactic and breaks it down. It will soften rubber unacceptably when exposed to it for the long term. A little exposure, however, can add a little flexibility and grip to the outermost layer of a platen. You can wipe a thin layer of brake fluid on with a paper towel, leave it on for about an hr, then wipe off whatsoever residue. Avert peel and eye contact. Allow several hours of drying afterward this process, because at first the platen exterior will exist too soft and should non be handled or used.
Use one or two sheets of backing newspaper for cushioning if your platen is difficult.
Up until April 2022, the Ames Supply Co. of Illinois provided a platen recovering service. In May 2022 they appear they were going out of business after 110 years.
In Germany, platens will exist recovered by Eveline Theobald B�romaschinen.
In Italy, contact Domenico Scarzello or Alessio Vescovo.
In the Netherlands, AKB Longs will recover platens.
In Switzerland, Typ Gummi TGW volition practice the job.
In the United kingdom, contact Mr. & Mrs. Vintage Typewriters or try Longs.
In the USA, J.J. Short recovers platens. Write to Peter at pjshort@jjshort.com to become a quote, providing the post-obit information: the within diameter of the rubber tube or the exterior diameter of the wooden or metallic core without the rubber; the current exterior bore of the platen; and the length of the rubber. "For multiple platens in the same size range we will offer discounted pricing for qtys of 2-v and 6+."
Westward Coast Platen, http://world wide web.platen.com/, had some spare platens in stock equally of June 2022. You may due east-mail george@platen.com.
Rino Breebart has illustrated on his blog how he recovered a Hermes platen using a bicycle inner tube. For a diameter and smoothness matching the original specifications, yous probably want to get a professionally installed new platen, but this is an interesting possibility.
I have used colored compress tubing to give a platen a new surface and a new colour (purple!). Like using a bicycle tube, this is not the most professional person and precise solution, but information technology is at least fun. Y'all need tubing that is big enough to fit easily over the platen. You tin heat information technology over a gas stove burner, turning frequently and rolling the platen on a counter every then often to smooth out the wrinkles. After v-10 minutes the tubing will fit tightly onto the platen.

Detailing

Many early on typewriters are busy with pinstripes -- ofttimes these are thin parallel lines of bluish and yellow. Beugler offers a kit for precision pinstriping with paint. Other pinstriping supplies are bachelor from Finesse Pinstriping. You can besides notice pinstriping decals at many hobby shops, or order them from The Antiquarian Phonograph Supply Co., Route 23, Box 123, Davenport Center, NY 13751-0123, phone 607-278-6218.
$.25 of aureate may be missing from the decals or lettering. I amateurish solution is to affect them upward with a fine-point metallic gold marking. This is hands scratched off, but for the beginner that'southward probably a virtue. The metallic mark really can meliorate the neatness of your typewriter if information technology'due south used wisely.
Replacement decals for many antiquarian typewriters are offered by Paul Robert. Visit his Etsy shop here. A longer list of his decals is here.
It's possible to go nickel parts replated. You may want to consult a professional (such as Rayco Metallic Finishing), but a home replating kit is made past Vigor-Bestfit, 320 Thornton Road, Lithia Springs, GA 30057. Phone 770-944-2733, fax 770-944-2765. The kit is available at Zak Jewelry Tools, 55 West 47th Street, New York, NY, phone 212-768-8122.
Replacement leather handle straps (for cases) can be cut from used leather belts. Nice replacement leather handles are also bachelor at some music stores, as they are used on musical instrument cases.
If the cardinal legends (the letters, numbers, etc.) on your keys are stained or faded, you lot tin supervene upon them. It helps a lot to have special tools for removing and replacing the metallic key rings. I accept prepared a PDF of key legends that you lot tin can download here. Print it on a laser printer at actual size (not "shrink to fit"). The PDF is high-resolution (1200dpi), but the quality of your printout will depend on your printer, the print settings, and the paper used. You may too prefer this black-and-white (bitmap) version.

Polishing

Here's the sensuous stage. Loving applications and re-applications of polishing agents will leave your typewriter looking glossy, fresh and grateful. You lot'll be amazed at the departure!

For a rubber, effective finish used by museums, I recommend Renaissance make microcrystalline wax. Information technology can exist found on eBay and at various online suppliers. Apply and vitrify the wax with clean cotton cloth.
A practiced culling is a commercial blend of microcrystalline waxes, in paste form, such as Johnson'due south "Klear" or "AeroWax."
Mother'southward Carnauba Cleaner Wax (available in machine supply stores) works nicely. Other car finishes, such equally Turtle Wax, tin also work well.
Wax can be removed with a cloth dampened in mineral spirits (such as Varsol and Stoddard Solvent). Use in a well-ventilated area.
Pledge is an easily available polish that I take frequently used as a cleaning and polishing agent. Spray it on a clean rag, wipe the role you lot're polishing thoroughly with the rag, repeat until the rag doesn't look brownish at all. Still, I take been warned that overuse of Pledge tin leave a mucilaginous rest. It also contains silicone, which may exist impossible to remove later on; do non spray it on the mechanism, and do non use Pledge on a rare machine. Endust claims that it contains no silicone. Nick Bodemer reports, "For prewar typewriters, I utilize Old English Lemon Furniture Smooth--it works very well, and does not remove decals (even on a 1930s Royal)."
I've also heard that Fantastick works well every bit a smooth and cleaner.
Other effective polishes include Armor All and Klasse All-in-I Polish.
Elaine Golladay suggests Klasse All in Ane Acrylic Protectant. Note that this motorcar shine will go out a stiff and shiny acrylic layer on the typewriter.
Female parent'southward Mag & Aluminum Shine (available at car supply stores) is an splendid cleaner and polish for metal parts both big and pocket-size. On machines with a lot of aluminum (such as the Blick vi or Hammond Folding) this stuff tin piece of work a miraculous transformation.
Other metal polishes include Flyt (bachelor at gun shops) and Simichrome (which has been highly recommended to me for aluminum -- ask at auto supply shops).

Mechanical repairs

Click here for a basic illustrated guide to simple repairs from a 1977 Reader's Digest book.

Click here for a Web version of Clarence LeRoy Jones' Typewriter Mechanical Training Manual, published past the U.S. War Department in 1944.

More service manuals can be found on my manuals page.

Transmission typewriters operate on relatively simple principles, and you tin can usually fix a problem using patient investigation and some screwdrivers. But don't underestimate the need to keep rail of all the parts you remove! You can easily find yourself with a pile of parts that you lot can't fit together again. Check Online Typewriter Support, by Will Davis, for further communication on operating, maintaining, and repairing a manual typewriter. Every bit for typewriter repair shops, visit my list of them hither.

Chapman Mfg. Co. has put together a overnice screwdriver kit with bits designed particularly for typewriter repair.
You may want to invest in a set of gunsmith'south screwdrivers. They are available in boxed sets with upwardly to 58 interchangeable bits, as well as ultrathin sets. This allows you lot to notice a perfect fit for every slotted screwhead, so impairment is less probable to occur. (Note that older screws tend to have much narrower slots than mod ones.) "The best source for these screwdrivers is Brownell'due south, Inc., 200 Southward Front Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171; tel. 515-623-5401; fax 515-623-3896. Check out their 'Magna-Tip Super-Sets.' You'll wonder how you lot managed without them. About $82.00, but they'll last a lifetime."
Magnetic screwdrivers are helpful for holding on to screws.
Sears sells very useful sets of Craftsman tools meant for repairing computers and other electronic equipment. The tools are hard steel, many have fine tips, and an ample diverseness of screwdrivers is included.
Dental picks are helpful as a means of reaching and manipulating interior areas.
A mutual problem is a cleaved wagon drawband (string or strap). The basic principle is simple: attach a new drawband to the butt (containing the mainspring) and one end of the wagon. The mainspring commonly does not have to exist wound up while you lot are doing this; information technology can be tightened later. Only this is all easier said than done, and this repair can be frustrating. The method will vary based on the model of typewriter. You may want to apply or create a long, sparse wire with a hook at the end which tin can exist pushed under the railroad vehicle and used to pull the cord through.
Kite string or strong f ishing line tin can be a helpful replacement for broken drawbands. Rob Bowker writes, "In the absence of fine waxed cord I have at once used baler twine, but more poetically I have used 'cat-gut' - a overnice organic replacement. A 1950s, warped and unplayable tennis noise was the donor."
Apartment shoelaces can supercede carriage pull straps.
Sometimes the mainspring itself is broken. Usually i cease of information technology has snapped off. Open up the butt to have a look. You can normally make a new hole in the end of the spring using a Dremel wheel, and reattach the spring to the barrel.
Rob Blickensderfer (blickr@comcast.net) makes parts for various antique typewriters, such as Hammond ribbon spool covers, Blickensderfer paper supports and release bails, and cranks for the Smith Premier brush cleaner. Very reasonably priced.
Jim Donahue (770-714-0556, jcd30281@yahoo.com) runs "Oliverservices," with many parts for Olivers as well as several products to service them: ribbons, touch-up paint, stainless render cablevision, replated parts, etc. Visit his eBay store here.
David Randall shows u.s. how to make new ribbon covers for a Remington noiseless portable on his web log besides as how to make new tab stops.

Typing

Then now yous're ready to practise some actual typing with your machine! Even if you lot're not going to use it for everyday correspondence, it'due south nice to know that information technology'due south functioning and "alive" once again. You need to deal with a few issues such equally inking, make clean type, and alignment.

Ribbons for most typewriters can sometimes still be found as close as your nearest office supply shop. The standard width is half an inch, and you lot'll find that this will work on almost all typewriters made after 1920 or so. If your typewriter can type in two colors (and most can), buy a black-and-cherry-red ribbon: it looks nice! For suggestions on ribbon sources, run into my FAQ.
Ribbon spools must be advisable to your auto. The most common are the kind that fit Underwoods, Smith-Coronas, and Royal portables; German typewriters commonly use a blazon called DIN 2103 which has a larger central hole. Olivetti spools need to be held downward with a particular kind of nut (blazon DIN 466 M3); you can find new ones online.
Odd-size ribbons: endeavour ribbons made for computer printers, press calculators, time clocks, and cash registers.
How to re-ink a ribbon: "Once a ribbon has run out of ink, and the typewriter has wound information technology all upwardly onto one spool, remove the ribbon from the typewriter. Become a bottle of Stamp-PAD INK, the aforementioned colour equally the ribbon (this works all-time with single-colour ribbons). Keeping the ribbon wound up onto 1 spool, coat the outermost part of the ribbon with stamp-pad ink, and let it to saturate through to the interior layers of ribbon, wound around the spool. You should really only accept to exercise this rather sparingly. No more than 2-iii drops here and in that location. Let the ink soak into the ribbon, and then rethread the whole thing back into the typewriter. Information technology'll run like new :) A canteen of stamp-pad ink is like $5, and one little bottle will last you for many re-inkings. Postage stamp-pad ink is ideal, because like typewriter ink, it doesn't readily dry in open air, so that ways the ribbon won't dry out overnight, but volition stay moist...well...until it runs out of ink once more!" --Shahan Cheong
Information technology may be worthwhile to treat a ribbon that however has ink, but has stale out, by spraying information technology with WD-twoscore. Lay it out thousand by yard / meter by meter and spray lightly and quickly. (Reminder: practise not use WD-40 to lubricate the typewriter itself.)
Ink rollers for Blickensderfers and other ink-roller machines: ane solution is to get rollers made for printing calculators, which tin be procured at a adept role supply store. You'll have to cutting them out of their plastic housing, and the price is a little steep ($3 or $4 for one roller -- the original Blickensderfer price was 25 cents a dozen!). Your fingers will get filthy. Another solution, more than durable and much less expensive, just not always like shooting fish in a barrel to find, is gun cleaning felts made by a visitor such every bit VFG; become them in 7mm or 7.5mm size. They can exist inked with stamp ink from manufacturers such equally ExcelMark or Trodat.
Ink pads for machines similar the Williams: don't replace an ink pad unless you really desire to use the machine, as in the long run the chemicals in the ink might corrode the type. A piece of black felt cut to the correct size volition look very prissy. If y'all practise want to effort inking, yous can try using postage stamp ink (see just above) but I don't know what kind of fabric will best hold the ink without drying out.
Hammonds originally came with a rubberized fabric impression strip that came between the hammer and the paper. It is ordinarily missing or cleaved, merely it is necessary in club to become good typing. Paul Robert recommends: "If there is a bicycle shop in your area, go there and buy one of those narrow rubber protection strips that become effectually the wheel to protect the inner tube from beingness punctured by the spokes. Cut off a slice one half inch shorter than the full length of the carriage, punch two holes on each side and yous have the perfect impression strip."
To make certain your types will impress clearly, you lot'll probably demand to clean out the crevices of letters like "e" and "south." Use the tip of a pin. Be gentle, and then you won't impairment the type.
For heavy-duty type cleaning, try Fedron (meet to a higher place under "Initial Cleanup") or denatured alcohol (don't get information technology on paint).
Old products such as Star Type Cleaner were intended to fit into the type and lift out some ink. For a mod replacement, Matthieu Thursday�or�t reports: "the Staedtler fine art eraser is malleable plenty and lifts the old caked ink like a charm." Elaine Hadden Golladay recommends Dap BlueStik (a reusable adhesive putty).
Alignment may be a big problem in an old typewriter. The typebars may stick at the printing point, because they're as well far to the right or left. The Oliver may produce especially wacky-looking work considering of the nature of its typebars. The only solution is to curve the typebars back into position, using guesswork and experimentation and intendance. If you're lucky, you can find some specialized tools for gently bending typebars; otherwise, try needle-nosed pliers.

Happy typing!